Makeup Tips for Headshots

I recently posted a blog which was general tips on how to achieve a good headshot during this I covered clothing, lighting and briefly mentioned makeup. Well since then I’ve had a few lovely young ladies ask me about the make up for a headshot. Fearing that they might look too fake/overdone which unfortunately can happen.

I’d like to point out now that I am not a makeup artist! And I really don’t know too much about makeup apart from my years of getting expensive makeup on the cheap (all thanks to my lovely mother for her staff discount at boots!) and from being on sets and photoshoots. So here is my (non-professional) advice.

Natural Look, not ‘Light’ makeup

For headshots, you want natural look makeup. ‘Light’ makeup is good as long as it is natural and evenly applied. If you apply foundation makeup too lightly, the application tends to be uneven, and you can see a mottled pattern in the picture. To avoid this, use enough amount of foundation with attention to make it uniform. Also, don’t be afraid to use a lot of setting powder, compared to when you are going to, say, a workplace or a party. What you need is good coverage combined with natural look finish.

Always good start is a clean and healthy skin, well moisturized. Use primer where appropriate.

Colour of foundation

Match the colour of foundation to the natural colour of your skin in neck/chest area. Some people (especially with fair skin) often choose a colour darker than the skin tone, and that is fine for social events. However, in photography, always match your foundation colour to the rest of your skin. If you prefer to alter the skin tone in your photograph, the whole skin colour can be adjusted to warmer to make it look most attractive during editing.

The best type of foundation is liquid type. For headshots, oil-free (water or alcohol based) or those that contain just right amount of oil is best. In particular, oil-free matte finish foundation is most common for beauty headshots, but it is a bit difficult to apply as they dry quickly, and it also makes caky look if applied too thickly. Avoid ‘sheer look’ as they have a bit too much oil to give excessive shine in the pictures, but sometimes oil based or silicon based foundation is used with a lot of powder. Powder or compact foundation doesn’t quite give the right level of coverage for photoshoots.

Lips

The colour of the lips should be one notch darker than the best look in person. The lips should be shifted in the direction of darker red. Also, lip gloss is often effective in making the lips fuller.

Eyes

Wax your eyebrows a couple of days in advance. Trying to reshape the brows through retouching process is possible, but costs more time and money than getting them waxed in real life. Fill in your brows, especially if you are not going for a retouching option. Make sure your brows are clear and dark enough when viewed in soft natural window light.

Mascara is also appropriate for headshots. Darker colour works better for mascara, so black is usually the best choice, even if you normally use brown. You can wear false lashes for most types of work other than the actor’s headshot. In photographs, the lashes do not look as long and drastic as you see in the mirror.

For natural look headshots like actress audition or corporate bio, there is no need to use heavy eye makeup at all. But if you are going for more styled photographs, the eye accents should be one notch heavier or vibrant.

Keep this in mind: the photographic lighting biases your face colour to the lighter side, and eyes are where you get the most attention.

Blush

Use blush in one small notch darker than the best look in person. However, please make sure to make a few well diffused applications in small quantities. The first time should be applied and spread in a wide circle, and the second and third in progressively smaller areas. This is to make sure that the edges of the blush are gradual and not abrupt. You can always add more, but once you apply too much in one application, it is hard to blur the edge or remove some.

Powder

Don’t be afraid to use a lot more powder than usual. A lot of setting or finishing powder is routinely used in fashion and beauty photography to reduce shimmer and make the skin look matte. You will realize that a professional makeup artist will keep applying powder every 10–20 minutes of the shoot to prevent shiny skin. You should bring yours and apply extra powder regularly.

For party makeup, shimmer can look great, but in photography, use matte finish.

Hair (also for men)

You may want to use hair spray, gel, and other products to tame frizz and make your hair look healthy. Make sure to avoid products that give a matte look. These are fine for some situations, but not for a photo shoot. Matte finished hair will look dull and lifeless in pictures. Instead, use hair products that enhance shine

Now casting directors can see the best version of you xxx

The Headshot

The headshot. It’s easily the single most important marketing tool for an actor, and it’s amazing how many people do it wrong just to cut a few corners. Actors, it’s time to take it more seriously. When that little headshot jpeg pops up on a casting director’s computer, you want them to say, ‘Yes, bring that person in!’ Not ‘Yikes, she kinda scares me.’

Your headshot is your calling card. From which people will hire you, and you will make lots of money for them. It will be sent out and emailed to tons of casting directors and agents, who see hundreds of these every day, on their desk and on their computer. If your headshot is bad, you look bad. You want to be seen as a pro, not an amateur, so the way you present yourself in your picture is everything. If you want people to take you seriously, you must have a good, high quality, killer headshot. Not one taken with your iPhone, not a Facebook photo of you outside with the wind gently blowing your hair, and not a glamour shot with palm trees in the background.

Here is what you need to keep in mind when it comes to your headshots:

1. Go pro. Spend the money. It’s worth it. Go to a professional, who is trained, understands lighting, and takes headshots for a living, not some friend who happens to have a decent camera who ‘sorta knows a little about photography.’ Save those pictures for Instagram, and leave the headshots to the pros. Good headshots are expensive to get them done professionally but there’s always photographers offering discounts and one off prices. In my opinion and experience if the headshots look cheap, they probably are. It makes you look like you don’t care about your career.

2. Go for personality over glamour. Make sure it looks like you. Chill with the airbrushing. Casting directors expect you to look just like your headshot, and will not be happy when you show up looking totally different, or 10 years older. It’s not about looking pretty, it’s about representing your type, your age wrinkles included. It should look like you on your best day and who you are now.

3. It’s all about the eyes. Just like with on-camera acting, it’s all about the eyes, and what’s happening behind them. It’s your close up, your moment. Your eyes should be perfectly in focus, alive, and energized, and not dead and glazed over. There should be strong inner thoughts, implying a backstory and a life behind the eyes. A good headshot photographer knows how to bring this out in you.

4. Pay attention to framing, lighting, and background. In general, a good headshot is chest up with good lighting on your face, and no strong dramatic shadows, unless you are going in for ‘The Phantom of the Opera.’ Three-quarter shots are also good for print, and extreme close ups are good for, well, nothing. Look directly into camera, and the focus should be on the centre of your eyes, not your left ear, or your shirt collar. Maybe the background is slightly blurred, which means it’s shot with a good, high quality camera with a high-depth of field, which makes you stand out.

5. Natural light vs. studio. Some photographers do both, as they offer a different look and feel. Natural light gives a very real, ‘film’ look, which I prefer. Studio lighting tends to be a little more polished, with a more neutral backdrop. Both can be wonderful. If you are more of a sitcom actor, perhaps a good well-lit studio headshot is more suited for you. If you want to look like you are on ‘True Detective,’ then go for the outdoor look.

6. Clothing and props. I once saw a headshot of a guy with a bird on his head. Why? Because he wanted to stand out. I get that but let’s not go crazy here. Keep it simple and classy, and follow the standard format. Professionalism gets you noticed, not desperation. Leave the statement shirts at home. A simple, solid colour shirt with a little texture that fits you well and matches your eyes should do the trick. No graphics or anything you think might distract from your face. And no props! (You know that, right?) If you think you are going to play cop roles, you don’t need to wear the outfit in the headshot. It’s a bit much, and very limiting.  I also have to point out, don’t show a lot of skin! Ladies, this means no excess cleavage. Guys, keep your shirts on. Casting directors want to see you…but not that much of you!

7. Don’t go crazy with the makeup. Yes, lots can be done with retouching. There is no need to put on tons of makeup. As I said earlier you want to look like yourself on your best day, and not look like you tried too hard. Girls, be yourself, do your hair the way you would for every audition. Guys, bring some oil sheets to take down the shine, and maybe use a lightly tinted moisturizer to take out the redness and even your skin tone. Some people spend way too much on makeup, only to have to get their headshots redone afterwards because they look fake in all the photos.

8. Constantly update your headshot, I go for every 12-18 months. Or whenever you've undergone significant physical change, such as weight loss/gain or changed your hair cut/colour.

9. Make sure the headshot looks professional. Usually a standard 8x10. Opt for a matte finish. No fancy fonts here either. Neither the border nor the printed name should draw attention away from your face! The aim of a headshot is to have your face grab their attention.

10. The most important find a photographer that gets you! You have to vibe with the photographer, and that person has to make you feel very comfortable, as you will hopefully be using this headshot for a couple of years and sending it to everyone in town. Research photographers online, look through their portfolio books, ask for a consultation, get a feel for how they photograph your type, your ethnicity, your gender, etc.

Last of all, you may attach your cover letter or C.V to your headshot. Be sure the staple does NOT cover important contact information or your headshot that you’ve worked so hard on. Just go be yourself and show what makes you unique. Capture you xxx